Wednesday, October 20, 2010

Tallest palm Tree's, Horse Riding, Salsa, Indiginous Markets and the Road to Ecuador

So we arrived into Salento in the dark and at first it felt very Mexican. Big town Square with a church and lots of street stalls around. Also felt very like a cowboy town. Lots of people with these random cowboy shirts and hats, bars with pool tables and a came called Tejo which is a drinking game in bars where you throw rocks at gunpowder and make it explode. Its actually an official game of Colombia I think. Not quite sure the details yet but have to find out!!



Got a cool hostel just outside of town on an eco farm. Big huge very comfortable house with lots of relaxing to be done. Probably the first time in my life I've enjoyed rain. For most of the three days there it lashed down and we just chillaxed, watched movies, read loads of magazines, chilled out online and chatted to a load of people. There was about 9 of us staying there and from the minute one, we decided to cook a nice big group meal with wine. Was such a treat and a good meal and stayed up for hours just chatting. One girl from Argentina told us a lot about what we need to see in Argentina and got us all excited about it!! Really looking forward to that and hopefully working there for a while. Sounds amazing and saw some unreal photos. The hostel is set on a hill surrounded by mountains all around but where it is, is actually the highest point in the middle. All around are coffee growing plantations and in the far background on a nice day you can see snow capped mountains. We were told that this hostel farm land etc could cost about $1 million dollars. We were paying about $7.50 per night including breakfast to stay there. The owner is also very interesting. A guy from New York and even though its a really cool place full of old antiques and little cool objects he has great ideas on how to improve it. There is a new tunnel been built through the mountains to connect Bogota to this region. At the moment its an 8 hour drive but will cut it down to 4 hours. They are also planning to build a big lake just near the hostel and this will also be a dam but available for swimming sailing etc so within a few years they plan to have a crazy amount of tourism coming through.



The hostel was so relaxing we just didn't want to leave even for the day. But one of the days we got a sunny morning so went hiking in valley to Cocora. This is this amazing scenery with the tallest palm trees in the world. Riding on the back of a jeep down to the valley we were all just awestruck by the beauty. Ended up taking 150 photos or so. We got some horses to bring us up the mountain. I don't have a clue how to ride a horse and how to steer it. It was funny cause they all had such personality. And they were all male, trying to pass each other out on these narrow tracks. Eventually got the hang of it and took in the scenery around us. The guide took them back once we were finished and we then walked back a different route. It was crazy walking in the middle of clouds and rain which had just come in. Literally wisps of cloud floating by us. Walked through pine forests and then got to these crazy tall palm trees. If you've seen pics of Beverly Hills these were the tallest I'd seen previously but the ones here are probably double the size. And they are dotted all over the mountains. At times it was so random cause the mountains with the pine trees are like something you'd see in Canada or Scandinavia and then the weather is just as chilly!! We got soaked to the bone once we got down a bit further. Never been so wet in my life from the rain!! Went back to the hostel for another lovely group cooked meal and a warm shower!!



From Solento we headed onto Cali the capital of plastic surgery and Salsa. At the bus stop we met a really nice Colombian girl called Isabel and somehow managed to have a conversation with her in Spanish while sober which usually doesn't happen to me!! She never mentioned to me that she spoke English! We then switched buses in Armenia and bumped into her again and she helped us out and helped us buy our bus tickets. She gave us her number and told us she'd bring us out in Cali and show us how to Salsa which is brilliant. Two Irish guys trying to Salsa with no idea is got to be funny!! So on the Thurs night we met her and her friend and had an absolutely brilliant night!! Thanks Isabel! Great night. Not sure how our dancing was but we tried. There are Salsa clubs absolutely everywhere. The place we went to was so kinda posh. All these white leather booths with seats. Got a bottle of rum and the waiter comes and serves it with napkins wrapped around the glasses topping up our ice with tongs as it melted!!



The next few nights over the weekend we just bar crawled and drank and danced our way through it until sunrise everyday. So many chivas buses here as well which are big open buses with loud music lots of alcohol and drive around the city partying. The streets are packed with bars and clubs and music. Even at 4 or 5 in the afternoon we were walking down a street one day and saw like three bars in a row with people drinking outside and dancing away. The first night we arrived in the hostel there was only 5 people there but by Saturday we had a big group of about 20 people to go out with and got on really well with them. A lot of people were heading north instead of south so was a shame to say goodbye to everyone after such a good time. But met some interesting people that I'm sure we'll bump into again at some point in the world!! On the Sunday night Gunther the guy who owns the hostel cooked this amazing BBQ. A massive steak, pork, Chorizo, Chicken and so much salad. Had like three helpings with more and more meat on each one. It cost less than 5 euros for all this!!!



On Monday morning the whole group we'd made friends with checked out and most people headed north unfortunately. So once again we were down to a two man wolf pack! Popayan was the next stop but luckily we met two English guys on the bus to join us and who are now joining us through Ecuador for a while as well. They didn't even stop in Cali. Within the second sentence of meeting them we told them how crazy they were and to get straight off the bus but they didn't listen to us so decided on a good weekend in Quito instead!!!



Anyway, Popayan had a very different feel to it. Seemed a lot different to the rest of Colombia and already I was feeling emotional about leaving. Its a city that is practically all white buildings. Beautiful city centre but you need sunglasses to walk around cause its so white!! We went to some big market in a traditional town where we saw the first indigenous people of Colombia. They were all very small, wearing purple and had top hats. Men and women seemed to be dressed the same. Was very interesting. Would loved to take a few more photos but felt kinda of rude. We stocked up on crazy amounts of veg and stuff for a chicken curry between 8 of us at the hostel which cost about $2 or less with left overs for breakfast and lunch. Definitely a lot cheaper than the rest of Colombia. Two of the evenings here we went up to a hill in the middle of the city to watch the sunset down over the mountains and all talked about how much we don't want to leave! I only have 10 days left on my stamp for Colombia so even if I don't leave now I presume I'll get deported soon!





We got up at 4am on Thurs to make the long journey to Ecuador. Starting winding through the hills at hairpin turns at 530 am the bus barely making it above 35kmph. Jawdropping views out the window of the mountains and canyons below us just another great way to see off Colombia. At times we were holding onto the ledges of the windows the turns were so tight but the rest of the time had my head stuck out the window just enjoying the view. Still have a sore back more than 24 hours later from facing the one direction all day yesterady. As we got further south it started turning more green, with fields and we could easily have been in Ireland again. Ipialies is the border town and we took a few hours out here to go visit this amazing cathedral or church built in a canyon between two mountains! And we had perfect weather for it as well. It was soon time to cross the border into Ecuador and our first impressions didn't please us at all. We met a few very ignorant and rude people plus we've heard a lot of stories about people getting robbed here so trying to be very wary of our stuff!! But it had been a long day travelling so hopped into a nice warm bed in chilly Quito once we arrived and will not let first impressions make our judgement on it! On the other hand we've also heard stories from here about how nice and helpful the people can be!

As I said before I'd highly highly recommend Colombia. Words can't describe how wonderful the people are here. And its mainly the people we met that made it, but also incredible scenery, great hostels, great food, unreal night life and dancing. Cool buses etc etc. You get the idea. It's not cheap though. A lot of stuff here costs way more than in Europe of USA. Even though its one of the most expensive countries I've been to on the other hand its possible to backpack it for cheap. In 7 weeks here I've spent just about €1100 or roughly 23 euros a day which usually gets me a few meals in a restaurant per day or a huge meal in the hostel, great hostels some with pools and Jacuzzis, lots of drinking and night clubs, tours and excursions and transport all over the country. Plus to get here is so so cheap from USA. Some of the flights are only $104 USD from Miami, NY or DC including taxes. Anyone who ever wants to go visit send me an email and I'll probably come back with you. Already planning on going back before I leave South America.


Map of route up at Pan-am Highway Map





Así llegamos a Salento en la oscuridad y al principio se sentía muy mexicano. Big Town Square con una iglesia y un montón de puestos callejeros en torno. También se sentía muy como un pueblo de vaqueros. Muchas personas con estas camisas vaqueras y sombreros al azar, bares con mesas de billar y un vino llamado Tajo que es un juego de beber en bares en los que lanzan piedras a la pólvora y hacerlo explotar. En realidad es un juego oficial de Colombia, creo. No muy seguro de los detalles todavía, pero tienen que saber!

¿Tienes un buen albergue en las afueras de la ciudad en una granja ecológica. Big Huge casa muy confortable con una gran cantidad de descanso por hacer. Probablemente la primera vez en mi vida he disfrutado de la lluvia. Para la mayoría de los tres días hay que estar anclados al suelo y sólo chillaxed, películas visto, leído un montón de revistas, chill out en línea y conversó con un montón de gente. Hubo cerca de 9 de nosotros permanecer allí y desde el de un minuto, decidimos preparar una buena comida grupo grande con el vino. Fue como un regalo y una buena comida y se quedó durante horas charlando. Una niña de Argentina nos dijo mucho acerca de lo que tenemos que ver en Argentina y tiene a todos entusiasmados con él! Muy entusiasmado con eso y espero trabajar allí por un tiempo. Suena increíble y vi algunas fotos irreal. El albergue está situado en una colina rodeada de montañas por todas partes, pero donde está, es en realidad el punto más alto en el centro. A su alrededor están las plantaciones de cultivo de café y en el fondo ahora en un buen día usted puede ver las montañas nevadas. Se nos dijo que este albergue, etc tierras agrícolas podría costar alrededor de $ 1 millón de dólares. Estábamos pagando alrededor de $ 7.50 por noche, desayuno incluido para permanecer allí. El propietario es también muy interesante. Un hombre de Nueva York y aunque es un lugar genial lleno de antigüedades de edad y poco fríos objetos que tiene grandes ideas sobre cómo mejorarlo. Hay un nuevo túnel se construye a través de las montañas de Bogotá para conectar a esta región. En el momento de su una unidad de 8 horas, pero lo redujo a 4 horas. También se planea construir un gran lago justo al lado del albergue y esto también será una presa, pero disponibles para el baño de vela, etc, así en pocos años se planea tener una cantidad loca del turismo que viene a través.

El albergue fue tan relajante que no quería salir, incluso para el día. Pero uno de los días tenemos una mañana de sol salió para ir de excursión en el valle de Cocora. Este es el increíble paisaje de los árboles más altos de palma en el mundo. El montar en la parte trasera de un jeep hasta el valle que todos estábamos impresionados sólo por la belleza. Terminó teniendo 150 fotos más o menos. Tenemos algunos caballos para llevarnos a la montaña. No tengo ni idea de cómo montar un caballo y la forma de dirigir. Fue divertido hacer todos tenían esa personalidad. Y fueron todos hombres, tratando de pasar el uno al otro en estas pistas estrechas. Finalmente consiguió la caída de ella y la tomó en el paisaje que nos rodea. El guía los llevó de vuelta una vez que se termine y entonces volvió una ruta diferente. Fue una locura andar en medio de las nubes y la lluvia que acababa de llegar in Literalmente jirones de nubes flotando por nosotros. Caminó a través de bosques de pino y luego llegó a estas altas palmeras loco. Si has visto fotos de Beverly Hills se trataba de la más alta que había visto anteriormente, pero las de aquí son probablemente el doble de tamaño. Y están repartidos por toda la montaña. A veces era tan aleatoria que las montañas con los pinos son como algo que se vería en Canadá o los países escandinavos y el clima es tan frío! Llegamos empapados hasta los huesos una vez que se bajó un poco más. Nunca ha sido tan húmedo en mi vida de la lluvia! Regresó al albergue para otro grupo encantadora cocinado comida y una ducha caliente!

Desde Solento nos dirigimos a Cali la capital de la cirugía plástica y la salsa. En la parada del autobús nos encontramos con una chica colombiana muy bonita llamada Isabel y de alguna manera para tener una conversación con ella en español al mismo tiempo sobrio que no suele pasar a mí! Ella nunca me mencionó que ella habla Inglés! A continuación, cambiar los autobuses en Armenia y tropezó con ella de nuevo y ella nos ayudó y nos ayudó a comprar nuestros billetes de autobús. Ella nos dio su número y nos dijo que ella nos traerá a cabo en Cali y nos muestran cómo la salsa que es brillante. Dos chicos irlandeses tratando de Salsa con ninguna idea es llegar a ser divertido! Así que en la noche jue nos encontramos ella y su amiga y tuvo una noche absolutamente brillante! Gracias Isabel! Gran noche. ¿No sabe cómo fue nuestro baile pero lo hemos intentado. Hay clubes de salsa absolutamente en todas partes. El lugar que fuimos a tan poco elegante. Todas estas cabinas con asientos de cuero blanco. ¿Tienes una botella de ron y el camarero viene y lo sirve con servilletas envuelto alrededor de los vasos superando nuestras hielo con pinzas, ya que derrita!

Las siguientes noches el fin de semana que acabamos de barra de rastreo y la bebió y bailó nuestro camino a través de ella hasta el amanecer todos los días. Así que los autobuses chivas muchos aquí, así que son grandes autobuses abiertos con mucha música a alto volumen de alcohol y conducir alrededor de la fiesta de la ciudad. Las calles están llenas de bares y discotecas y la música. Incluso en 4 o 5 de la tarde estábamos caminando por una calle un día y vio como tres barras en una fila de gente bebiendo y bailando fuera de distancia. La primera noche que llegamos en el albergue sólo había 5 personas allí, pero el sábado tuvimos un gran grupo de unas 20 personas para salir con y llevamos muy bien con ellos. Una gran cantidad de personas que se dirigían hacia el norte en lugar del sur también lo era una vergüenza para decir adiós a todo el mundo después de tanto tiempo. Pero conocí a algunas personas interesantes que estoy seguro que vamos a tropezar de nuevo en algún punto del mundo! En la noche del domingo Gunther el tipo que posee el albergue cocinado este increíble barbacoa. Un filete de carne de cerdo masiva, chorizo, pollo y ensalada por lo tanto. Había como tres porciones de carne cada vez más en cada uno de ellos. Costó menos de 5 euros para todo esto!

El lunes por la mañana todo el grupo que había hecho amistad con desprotegido y la mayoría de la gente hacia el norte por desgracia. Así que una vez que se redujeron a un paquete de dos hombres lobo! Popayán fue la siguiente parada, pero por suerte nos encontramos con dos tipos Inglés en el autobús a unirse a nosotros y que ahora se unen a nosotros a través de Ecuador por un tiempo así. Ellos ni siquiera se detuvo en Cali. En la segunda frase de la reunión que les dijimos lo loco que eran y para obtener directamente del autobús, pero no nos escuchan así se decide en un buen fin de semana en Quito en lugar!

De todos modos, Popayán tenía una muy diferente sienten a la misma. Parecía muy diferente al resto de Colombia y ya me sentía emocional de dejar. Es una ciudad que es prácticamente todos los edificios blancos. centro de la hermosa ciudad, pero que necesita gafas de sol para caminar por causa de su tan blanco! Fuimos a un gran mercado en un pueblo tradicional, donde vimos los primeros indígenas de Colombia. Todos ellos eran muy pequeños, el uso de púrpura y había sombreros de copa. Los hombres y las mujeres parecían estar vestidos de la misma. Fue muy interesante. Se agregaron a tomar unas cuantas fotos más, pero sentía un poco de mala educación. Hemos almacenado para arriba en cantidades locas de verduras y otras cosas por un pollo al curry de 8 de nosotros en el albergue que cuesta alrededor de $ 2 o menos con sobras para el desayuno y el almuerzo. Definitivamente mucho más barato que el resto de Colombia. Dos de las noches aquí subimos a una colina en el centro de la ciudad para ver la puesta de sol por encima de las montañas y todos hablaban de lo mucho que no me quiero ir! Sólo quedan 10 días en mi sello para Colombia por lo que incluso si no me dejas ahora supongo que voy a ser deportado pronto!

Nos levantamos a las 4 am el jueves para hacer el largo viaje a Ecuador. A partir de liquidación a través de las colinas en curvas cerradas a 530 horas el autobús apenas lo hace por encima de 35kmph. Jawdropping puntos de vista por la ventana de las montañas y cañones debajo de nosotros sólo otra manera de ver frente a Colombia. A veces se celebraban en las repisas de las ventanas de las vueltas eran tan ajustado, pero el resto del tiempo tenía la cabeza pegada a la ventana simplemente disfrutar de la vista. ¿Todavía tiene una llaga de más de 24 horas después de una frente a la dirección todos los yesterady día. Como llegamos más al sur que comenzó a girar más verde, con campos y que fácilmente podría haber sido en Irlanda de nuevo. Ipialies es la ciudad fronteriza y tomamos un par de horas aquí para ir a visitar esta increíble catedral o una iglesia construida en un cañón entre dos montañas! Y tuvimos un clima perfecto para él también. Fue poco tiempo para cruzar la frontera hacia Ecuador y nuestras primeras impresiones no nos agradan a todos. Nos reunimos unas cuantas personas muy ignorantes y groseros, más hemos escuchado muchas historias de gente a ser robado aquí para tratar de ser muy cuidadoso de nuestras cosas! Pero había sido un largo día de viaje por lo metió en una buena cama caliente en la fría Quito una vez que llegamos y no permitirá que las primeras impresiones que nuestro juicio sobre él! Por otro lado también hemos escuchado historias de aquí en lo bueno y útil, la gente puede ser!

Como he dicho antes de que yo recomiendo altamente Colombia. Las palabras no pueden describir lo maravilloso que la gente está aquí. Y su todo la gente que conocimos que la hizo, sino también un paisaje increíble, hostales, buena comida, vida nocturna irreal y el baile. Enfriar los autobuses, etc, etc Usted consigue la idea. No es barato, aunque. Un montón de cosas aquí cuesta mucho más que en la Europa de los EE.UU.. A pesar de que su uno de los países más cara que he estado en el otro lado su posible mochila es más barato. En 7 semanas aquí me he pasado casi € 1100 o aproximadamente 23 euros al día que por lo general me lleva unas cuantas comidas en un restaurante por día o una gran comida en el hostal, hostales gran algunas con piscinas y jacuzzis, un montón de agua potable y clubes nocturnos, paseos y excursiones y transporte en todo el país. Además para llegar hasta aquí es tan tan barato de EE.UU.. Algunos de los vuelos son sólo $ 104 USD de Miami, Nueva York o los impuestos incluidos DC. Cualquiera que alguna vez quiere ir a visitar a enviarme un e-mail y probablemente volveré con ustedes. Ya pensando en ir de nuevo antes de salir de América del Sur.

Saturday, October 9, 2010

Medellin - Manizales: Drugs, Coffee and Jacuzzi's

Medellin, the city of eternal spring, previous considered the most dangerous city in the world in the 80's and 90's, home of Pablo Escobar and now one of the most exciting, built up and modern cities in Colombia. Stayed in a Kiwi hostel called the Black Sheep in a really nice area of town. Full of top buildings, banks, shopping malls. We walked to one shopping mall one day. In the front door and literally turn our heads vertically up to look at the amount of floors above us. The amount of shops, escalators etc. All shiny and brand spanking new looking. Walked in through the first bit and then were greeted with an even bigger sized part of the mall multi stories high and this great open dome in the middle with seats to sit on and relax in the sun. Funnily enough it started raining and like a massive soccer stadium we saw a roof close over this. Then on the top floor in the food court which had a crazy amount of good but very expensive food was this amazing view of all the mountains around and the rest of the city. This was just one of many buildings like this. The climate in Medellin is generally perfect. Sunny, warm and just like a constant spring. Of course when I was there, there was a lot of rain but we got a few nice days in as well.



For most of the weekend as usual between Thurs and Sunday we didn't get to see daylight much. Because were so close to the equator it gets dark between 530 and 6. The hostel we were in was in an area called Zona Rosa which is the place with the bars and night clubs. And there are many bars and night clubs all over the place. The staff in our hostel were so friendly as well. Thanks a million to Gisela and Carlos, showing us a great time the first night out!!! One thing I'll never forget about Colombia is the people I've met here and gone out with. On the Sunday we were so wrecked from going out just stayed in and had this amazing BBQ. For about $5 we had so many steaks, chorizo, chicken, veg, salad etc cooked by the owner. I know Argentinian steak is meant to be the best but for me this is the best I've had so far. Then after a lot of hanging around and doing nothing and still half drunk decided it was time for me to get a haircut. After two and a half yrs it was ridiculously long and annoying. So a Canadian girl we were hanging out with did a quick snip. Not a bad job but the next morning I decided it was still pretty long and had a go of it myself. Fucked it up a bit then so now in search of a place to do it properly. There was some conditions in getting the haircut though and ended up in some embarrassing photos of dressing up like a girl which I'm not sure if they've made it to facebook yet!!! Funny though, but I've a policy of never untagging a photo so if they go online they are there for everyone to see!!!



The metro system in Medellin is amazing. New, clean, efficient and modern. And one of the lines is actually a cable car that goes way high up above the city and over the slums. Very interesting to see. We got that up one evening and was such a buzz about this part of the city. There was a big library, auditorium and computer building that someone had invested money in to educate the children here. We met some really cool kids who were all interested in talking to us and wondering where we were from and stuff.

We also did the Escobar tour. So in case people don't know who he is, he is the biggest cocaine trafficker to exist, was the richest criminal in the world and in 1989 Forbes said he was probably the 7th richest man in the world worth $9 billion. He offered to pay off Colombia's national debt to try and legalise cocaine. He controlled 80% of the worlds cocaine market. Or rather the Medellin cartel did. The tour we did was very interesting. Learnt a lot about what Colombia and in particular Medellin was like in 20 yrs ago. What it was like for people growing up there and also saw a number of Escobars houses, planes, place where he was shot to death by the police and the story of his life. We heard stories about the amount of kidnappings in the past, how in the late 80's there was 60 car bombs in 3 months and lots more. Was tough trying to take it all in. But certainly interested in learning how this city has changed so much in the last two decades. Although on the same hand if you look at how Northern Ireland or Bosnia, Croatia and most of the Balkans has changed as well. The guide was even telling us funny jokes they had as kids about it all. Even when they lived in the danger kids make jokes as all kids do. Chatting to a lot more locals in Medellin learning how back in the past when people wanted to leave and go to America or other countries for work and now everyone wants to come back. That kind of reminds me of Ireland a bit when people emigrated in the 80's and started to come back in the early 2000's when there was lots of work! Also its not just Colombians who want to come back and stay. We've met so many backpackers like myself who come for a while and stayed, set up shop, got a job or started up a hostel. As I probably mentioned before the tourist slogan is: Colombia: the only risk is wanting to stay. And I've been here nearly 6 weeks already, longer than any other country I've ever travelled to except when I stayed onto work in places, and I'm still not ready to leave it.

After Medellin we decided to go to Manizales. This was another spot with a really shit little paragraph in the lonely planet and a place not a lot of people stop off in. But wikitravel described it as very much a student city. Lots and lots of universities. Population of 400,000 where 100,000 are students and girls outnumber guys 3 to 1. We thought it was worth a look for a weekend! Another city high in the mountains, parts of it literally built on the ridges of the mountain where you can see amazing views from both sides of the street. Again lots of bars, pizza places, cool hang out spots. In one way it kinda reminded me of the vibe in Santa Barbara. Looks totally different but just the student vibe along the main street there. Got a really cool hostel where again we made friends with the staff (Thanks Guys) and they showed us a great time over the weekend. Hostel had a jacuzzi, great bar, loads of movies, Internet etc. Colombian hostels have so much! There was only 5 of us staying there that weekend which at first we thought wouldn't be as much fun but it proved to be better that way. Spent three nights there which ranged from Jacuzzi parties, to drinking on the streets to night clubs to drinking in the hostel. The girls and Alejo that work at the hostel were great and introduced us to a lot of their friends. More about that in other blogs!! Thanks again guys! Highly recommend it to anyone heading that direction.



We had arrived there on a Thursday night and one of the main things I wanted to do was a hike up to the Nevado del Ruiz. Looking out the window of our hostel there are mountains all around, perfect blue skies in the morning and snow capped peaks. Nevado del Ruiz is 5300 metres (17388ft) high and has continuous snow line. Was meant to be like -10 or -15 Celsius on top and been this close to the equator I was mad to see some snow. It's not a long hike cause they can drive up so far. Also there are a few points around this part of the world that even though they aren't higher than Everest they are the furthest point from the centre of the earth. So on the Thursday night after a late enough jacuzzi party we got up at 630 am to make the trip. Tired out we got on a bus and start driving up the mountain. Was about 830 when we got word that it was closed. I was so disappointed. It was a perfect bluebird day. Could see the snow. Was hot in town like mid 20's. And we had to turn back. Apparently there was a few 1000 small earthquakes up there but we also heard excuses that it was too windy. It's also a volcano so I'm sure someone might have made an excuse that it was erupting but we'll never know.



After all that it was another typical Sunday and time to recover, take a few days off and move to the next place, Zona Cafetera or the coffee region. Solento....




Thursday, October 7, 2010

San Gil and Bogota

After Bucaramanga we decided on a sober week and headed for San Gil which is an adventure sports town a few hours away. For some reason I expected a little bit like Queenstown or Interlaken which it wasn't. But still after two hours of winding through mountain roads on a beautiful day we arrived in a hilly side red roofed town with great views and another amazing hostel. It's full of all sorts of adventure sports like White water rafting, caving, rock climbing, paragliding and river surfing. We decided on river surfing which is basically bodyboarding down a river. Was good but I was so cold. Had also done this in NZ previously and it was a lot better there and also cold!! Guess these rivers come down from way up in the mountains. We spent a few days hanging out, going to little colonial towns, doing some walks. There were grade 5 rapids here and lots of white water rafting but we never took part in that. The hostel here had two amazing kitchens and a pool and all sorts of movies channels. Sky digital here seems way better than at home!!! Ended up doing a great roast one night and baking a chocolate cake another night which was a great treat.





Headed on to Bogota for the weekend.which ended up going into a week. First thing is it was freezing. Its at 2640 metres and felt like Dublin in a way on a late autumn day. Gets dark at 6 in the evening. On some days we were walking around with four layers of clothes on and a hat and still cold. But it was great for a change to not be sweating it out everyday. Weird putting on shoes and jeans again after so many mths in the humidity and having proper quilts in bed to wrap up in. We all got different vibes off Bogota. In places because of the buildings and dreary weather it felt like Dublin, other people felt it was like Berlin or Buenos Aires in places. It's over 8 million people so varies all over the place and was a really impressive city. We ended up getting ourselves an apt for the first 5 nights or so which was great. Two stories high with kitchen and movie channels internet etc. Slept the whole of the first day and then hit it hard for the weekend. Barely saw daylight as usual on the weekends in Colombia. Also ended up in an Irish bar for the first time in 4 mths. Night life was great there with streets and streets of bars and clubs but just when you think its over and ask for a taxi home we got dropped off at some other random night club on the top floor of a skyscraper, views of the whole city and was open until midday and had three or four dance rooms. As usual the Colombians we met were as hospitable as ever, showing us around and telling us where was good to go.



Most days here we just chilled out, relaxed but because of the cold didnt do too much. The odd museum, lookout over the city and then one day went to salt mines. Heard about these Cathedrals built underground in these salt mines and sounded quite interesting. Sounded a few hundred yrs old as well. Well when I arrived after an hour and a half on a bus I realised I'd done the exact same thing in Poland four yrs ago and it bored the shit out of me. Don't know why I didnt remember. Was so boring I must have blacked it out of my memory. The guide in here even mentioned three in the world this big Poland, Colombia and Canada. I wouldn't reccomend it. Plus it was only built 14 yrs ago and it not a proper cathedral. Just a money making racket. We entertained ourselves by asking the guide stupid Qs.



Adrian then arrived that night. A good friend from Ireland that I've only actually met up with once in Ireland. Did J1 with him 5 yrs ago in San Diego and then also travelling in Asia with him last yr so he's with me for the next few months. And for some reason that night there ended up been about 8 or 9 Irish in our hostel of about 15 for some strange reason. Havn't seen that many Irish in a long time!

One thing I'm loving about Colombia is how ahead of time it is. In some places it's like travelling into the future. So much here is so brand new and modern. High class shopping malls everywhere. Cinemas, bars, nightclubs, restaurants. Buses that are better than Mexican buses (which were previously the best Id been on) Also random laws that you don't usually see in other countries around here like smoking ban in bars, all public buses have to have the speed clock in public view in case they break the speed, seatbelts in every car and taxi. I know it sounds normal to have all these but in a lot of countries they don't exist. Also tap water is fine to drink which in most of the world I've travelled it isn't. And its really good water. Meant to be second best in the world as in cleanest I think! We've had hot showers all over Colombia which I hadn't seen in months also. Again this is all normal in Western Europe or North America or Australia etc but most places I go this is a big luxury. One other thing I love is they close 120 km worth of highways in Bogota on a Sunday. First this cuts down on polution and it opens them up to cyclists rollerbladers etc to go and get fit and enjoy themselves. Imagine doing this in another city of 8 million people like London or Paris. On a friday they also close off streets so people can party. There is a lot of recycling around the place and a lot of the cities are kept so clean with perfect parks, pathways and fountains. Even in Medellin where they have a metro it is spotlessly clean, modern efficient. One of the lines of the metro is actually a cable car which brings you up into the slums and the mountains. This is part of the metro card. And again on the whole system there is no graffiti, rats scuttering around or rubbish been thrown.






Después de Bucaramanga nos decidimos por una semana sobria y se dirigió a San Gil que es una ciudad de deportes de aventura de unas horas de distancia. Por alguna razón que yo esperaba un poco como Queenstown o Interlaken que no lo era. Pero aún después de dos horas de la liquidación a través de caminos de montaña en un hermoso día que llegamos a un lado la ciudad montañosa cubierta de color rojo con grandes vistas y otro albergue increíble. Está lleno de toda clase de deportes de aventura como rafting, espeleología, escalada, parapente y el surf río. Decidimos navegar en el río que es básicamente bodyboard por un río. Era buena, pero yo estaba tan fría. También había hecho anteriormente en Nueva Zelanda y fue mucho mejor allí y también en frío! Supongo que estos ríos bajan de forma en las montañas. Pasamos unos días fuera, va a pequeños pueblos coloniales, haciendo algunos paseos. Hubo 5 º grado rápidos aquí y un montón de rafting, pero nunca participó en eso. El albergue tiene dos cocinas increíble y una piscina, todo tipo de canales de películas. digital aquí cielo parece mucho mejor que en casa!Terminó haciendo un gran asado y una noche para hornear un pastel de chocolate otra noche que fue un gran regalo.

Dirigido a Bogotá el fin de semana que acabó de entrar en una semana. Lo primero es que fue punto de congelación. Su en 2640 metros y se sentía como Dublín, en una forma en un día de finales de otoño. Anochece a las 6 de la tarde. En algunos días que estuvimos caminando con cuatro capas de ropa y un sombrero y el frío todavía. Pero fue un cambio grande para no ser sudar todos los días. Raro ponerse los zapatos y los pantalones vaqueros de nuevo después de tantos MTHS en la humedad y con colchas en la cama adecuada para concluir in Todos tenemos diferentes vibraciones fuera de Bogotá. En los lugares por los edificios y el clima sombrío que se sentía como Dublín, más sentía que era como Berlín o Buenos Aires en algunos lugares. Es más de 8 millones de personas lo varía todo el lugar y era una ciudad realmente impresionante. Terminamos recibiendo nosotros un apto para los primeros 5 noches o más, que era grande. Dos pisos de altura con cocina etc y películas de Internet canales Dormí todo el primer día y luego lo golpeó duro para el fin de semana. Apenas vio la luz del día como de costumbre los fines de semana en Colombia. También terminó en un bar irlandés, por primera vez en 4 mess. La vida nocturna no era grande, con calles y calles de bares y clubes, pero sólo cuando se piensa en sus más y pedir un taxi a casa tenemos dejados en algún club nocturno al azar otros en el último piso de un rascacielos, vistas de toda la ciudad y estaba abierto hasta el mediodía y tuvo tres o cuatro salas de baile. Como de costumbre los colombianos que conocimos eran tan hospitalario como siempre, mostrando a nuestro alrededor y nos dice que era bueno para ir.

Casi todos los días aquí nos refrescamos, relajado, pero debido a la fría aún no ha hacer demasiado. El museo extraño, mirador sobre la ciudad y un día se fue a las minas de sal. Oído hablar de estas catedrales construidas bajo tierra en estas minas de sal y sonaba muy interesante. Sonaba unos pocos cientos de años de edad también. Bueno, cuando llegué después de una hora y media en un autobús me di cuenta de que había hecho exactamente lo mismo en Polonia hace cuatro años y aburrido de la mierda fuera de mí. No sé por qué aún no ha recordar. Era tan aburrido que debe haber tachado de mi memoria. La guía de aquí, incluso mencionó tres en el mundo tan grande de Polonia, Colombia y Canadá. Yo no lo recomendaría. Además de que fue construido hace sólo 14 años y no una catedral adecuada. Sólo un dinero que hace la raqueta. Nos entretuvo haciendo la guía Qs estúpido.

Adrian luego llegó esa noche. Un buen amigo de Irlanda que sólo he hecho se encontró con una vez en Irlanda. ¿Se J1 con él hace 5 años en San Diego y luego también de viaje en Asia con él año pasado por lo que está conmigo para los próximos meses. Y por alguna razón esa noche no terminó sido hasta unos 8 o 9 de Irlanda en nuestro albergue de alrededor de 15 por alguna extraña razón. No te has visto que muchos irlandeses en mucho tiempo!

Una cosa que estoy amando de Colombia es como antes de la hora. En algunos lugares es como viajar en el futuro. Tanto aquí es tan nuevo y moderno. Centros comerciales de clase alta en todas partes. Cines, bares, discotecas, restaurantes. Los autobuses que son mejores que los autobuses de México (que antes eran los mejores Id sido a) las leyes también al azar que no solemos ver en otros países por aquí, como la prohibición de fumar en los bares, todos los autobuses públicos tienen que tener el reloj de la velocidad en la vista del público en caso de que romper la velocidad, cinturones de seguridad en todos los coches y taxis. Sé que suena normal que todos estos, pero en muchos países no existen. También el agua del grifo es buena para beber, que en la mayor parte del mundo he viajado no lo es. Y el agua muy bien.Destinado a ser el segundo mejor en el mundo como el más limpio en el que pienso! Hemos tenido duchas de agua caliente en todo Colombia, que yo no había visto en meses también. De nuevo, esto es normal en Europa Occidental o América del Norte o Australia, etc, pero la mayoría de los lugares que voy este es un gran lujo. Otra cosa que me encanta es que cerca de 120 km de carreteras por valor de Bogotá el domingo. En primer lugar esto se reduce la contaminación y los abre a patinadores ciclistas, etc para ir y ponerse en forma y divertirse. Imagínese hacer esto en otra ciudad de 8 millones de personas como Londres o París. En un viernes que también está cerca de las calles para que la gente del partido. Hay un montón de reciclaje en todo el lugar y muchas de las ciudades se mantienen tan limpio con una perfecta parques, vías y fuentes. Incluso en Medellín, donde tienen un metro es muy limpias, modernas y eficientes. Una de las líneas del metro es en realidad un teleférico que te lleva hasta en los barrios bajos y las montañas. Esto es parte de la tarjeta de metro. Y de nuevo en el sistema en su conjunto no hay graffiti, ratas scuttering alrededor o basura sido lanzada.

Bucaramanga the 5 Days of Craziness

Most people including myself use the Lonely Planet to figure out how to get around and live life on the road. Some people are against it cause it just brings you to the same places as everyone else or things have changed since it was written or perhaps just because its only one persons opinion. Still though its incredibly useful. Unfortunately it gave a really boring and bad description of Bucaramanga making it out to be a dull industrial city but we still decided to stop here and its absolutely incredible. Population of over one million people, a huge city built between the mountains. So many shopping malls, fancy restaurants big roads and real cool apartments. Colombia is probably the first country where were no longer seen as rich gringos but just poor backpackers. Cannot believe the wealth around here. The first day in Bucaramanga was prob one of the best days of my trip. As usual I've written this blog in stages and I'm now going to change that and say the last three days in Bucaramanga have been the best of the trip if not some of the best in my life!!



We went up into the hills to go hang gliding. A few of the others we know from the boat were doing a 10 day course learning how to become pilots. We decided on a tandem jump. First of all the weather was perfect. No more sweaty Caribbean humidity but just a lovely warm heat. Felt very like a nice warm Sept day in Ireland. Blue skies and amazing views of the city from the mountains. I got to go first and was meant to go for half an hour flight but only was about 15 Min's. Got up pretty high but the winds weren't strong enough. Then we tried again and instead of landing at the start point the winds brought us down to the bottom where we landed and got picked up. Got a lift back up the mountain and while the others took their goes sat there watching the sun go down over the city. Was so enthralling just flying through the air like that following the birds. Sitting down relaxing and doing twists and turns with these stunning views to enjoy. Def going to try it in a few more places. Especially in Rio de Janiero and probably a few more places in Colombia!





Was really due a sleep after a few sleepless nights in buses and hammocks but this is a student city and the owner of the hostel slash paragliding place told us where to head out. Ended up in this bar with some really friendly Colombians. Incredible how nice they are and I am amazed how similar in culture a lot of it is to Ireland. Besides the eating and drinking on the streets, if you get into the bar and nightclub scene it very much reminds me of Ireland. And of course this meant an after party at one of their apartments where the Aguardimente the Colombian drink was flowing. The apartment we went back to was crazy. 360 degree views of the city from from a near penthouse style apartment. Flat screen TVs music been played on surround sound system and people dancing and chatting. Absolutely incredible girls. Was a small enough party, not too many people but they were all so friendly and welcome to have us. And these people are absolutely loaded. The guy who owned the apartment and bar, really fun guy just a few yrs older than me was the lawyer for the Governor of the state. Really couldn't picture him as a lawyer though.

Following day another brilliant and shocking day of the hospitality of the Colombians. Victor, the guy who's riding his bike gets a lot of attention because of the bike. But a few days previous some guy had shown him directions to the hostel and they got talking. The guy then invited him for dinner at his house and me as well. This house was downtown a bit so the guy came to collect us and we drove downtown to meet his family. They were the most happiest smiliest people I{ve met and had such a great time with them. Victor speaks Spanish and my Spanish seems to be getting worse by the day which is pretty much nothing at this stage so was hard with the language barrier but still managed to get a view words in and understand a bit of what was going on. Victor did most of the talking though. It was the son who had invited us, so we met the parents and the two daughters. Ate some dinner and beers and then they took us around their neighbourhood for two hours showing us all the sights. As I said before they were all so cheerful and smiling non stop. I really loved it. I'm trying to find the words to describe some of these experiences lately in Colombia but just cant find them. After walking around town we went back to the house, turned on some music and their two beautiful daughters thought us how to dance Salsa. A lot more chatting and drinking lots more Aguardimente the Colombian drink before heading back to the hostel at midnight. Thinking this was the end of our night we arrive in and are given a phone number of some girl our friend Nathalie had gone out with. So again it just didn't stop. Met some more people. Made it out to a number of streets that were just buzzing with night clubs and bars and all the beautiful people of the world!!!





I guess at this stage a lot of this sounds like I'm repeating myself but just write it day by day so I wont forget! Saturday was ridiculous. Just when I thought it couldn't get any better and thought I'd seen it all we discover we've arrived at the start of Feria which is a big festival to celebrate the cities birthday. I don't know the exact size of these street parties but we had walked 10 to 12 blocks long and 4 or 5 blocks wide and the streets were full of music, people, drinking, beer and party. Traffic was closed off in some sections so when I say a lot of people I mean thousands. And it wasn't just parties from bars but also houses, big cars with massive sound systems blaring out music and even blockbuster video had a few hundred people in their parking lot dancing and drinking. Beautiful girls all over the place and everyone is so well dressed and smart. This went on all day and all night. And from minute one again the people offering us so many drinks and showing us where to go. The first few people were offering us a 12 year old whiskey. In the bars people wanted to buy shots and a lot of people invited us to come stay at their houses for a few nights. We've gotten to know a good few locals around as well over the last few days that come out with us each night. The street parties are just mad and again I'm struggling to find the words to describe the fun of it. And I love the way there is no violence or fights. Well I'm sure there is probably some but not in your face. At one point some small fight started and everyone started calling the police over to break it up. As I'm writing this we have all decided to stay in the hostel for the day just chilling out on the Internet, watching movies and trying to detox. Were nearly afraid to go out on the streets again in cause we stumble into some other big festival!! Originally only planned to stay in Bucaramanga for 1 night and its now going into five days so aiming to get out of here tomorrow!